A Meath Bohs fan in Kazan for the World Cup
TONY MAGNER
TONY is a Bohs fan - he lives in Trim and is a teacher in Athboy CS. He was in Kazan at the World Cup.
Wearing a Bohs shirt in Kazan certainly gets you noticed. That, and the Irish triclour emblazoned with Sally Rogers, Trim - which is to the locals as rare as it is wonderful.
Squinting eyes searched the crest for clues as to what this strange jersey was. Most of the reactions ranged from bewilderment to delight.
Pictures are requested and given, pleasantries are exchanged before the Kazanians and many of the visiting fans from around the world muster the gumption to ask us what the hell we are doing there as they smile and shake their heads!
The FIFA Fan Zone was at the Kazan Family Centre, an enormous observation tower in the shape of a traditional Tatar cooking pot facing the stunning Kremlin.
Kazanians are very proud of the autonomy ceded by Boris Yeltsin back in 1993 when they agreed the join the Russian Federation rather than becoming another of the fledgling new states to leave Mother Russia's embrace like their near neighbours the Kazakhs or Uzbeks.
Nationalism is very strong here, but not militant. Vladimir Putin has put billions into this Republic to convince them that loyalty to the Russian Federation is still more attractive than any notions of independence, for the moment at least.
Back in 1993 when Yelsin was busy wooing the Tatars, they became one of the first to sign up to the notion of the new Russia.
For this they received huge concessions from Moscow, their own parliament, their own President, certain powers over fiscal spending while still of course being completely subservient to the central government ensconced in the Moscow Kremlin.
Their current President will serve out his term and then there will be no more. I wonder then how moderate their nationalism will be when the carrot of autonomy is removed and Tatarstan will have to continue to cough up its oil to Moscow?
Kazan definitely belies some of the myths and fears from before this World Cup kicked-off in mid-June.
Whatever about the political level, on the human level this World Cup was the real deal.
However, an Ecuadorian man, a mature student in the local university, cut loose one evening in an Irish Bar in Kazan.
“The people think that they know what freedom is. They think it is having the right to have a barbecue whenever they want, to be able to buy designer foreign gear,” he said in exasperation.
“But they are afraid to speak up and look for change, afraid to question the system.
“And when you ask them why they do not vote they say, Putin will win anyway, you get the government you deserve,” he added.
Sobering, but we could see his point.
And so to the football.
The Kazan Arena, home of Rubin Kazan was built in 2013 for the World University Games.
Sitting in it for the first time as Colombia and Poland clashed in the group stages, the stadium rocked with passion and fervour that reminded me of Lille's Metropole when Ireland had the same night of nights that the Colombians had here.
Most of Colombia seemed to be in Kazan when they played Poland off the park, thousands of them converged on Kazan from the USA and Europe.
James Rodriguez showed everyone the world class player he is on the night. Ospina showed everyone the player that he's never been at Arsenal while Davinson Sanchez (Spurs) is imperious.
You may remember Radamel Falcao from his post operative delirium tremens at Old Trafford when he couldn't hit a cows arse with a banjo?
Well he slides the decisive second past Wojciech Szczseny with the aplomb not seen by the prawn sandwich brigade at United.
Jaun Cuadrado sloted away the third, the player hardly seen under Mourinho at Chelsea.
Colombia were lifted on a wave of passion, colour, emotion and noise and Poland and Mr Lewandowski had no answer.
A Uruguayan beside us says without malice or agenda, “Ah, you are from Ireland, why are you here?”
“Maybe if you competed as part of a Great Britain team you'd have a chance, no?”
I replied that that would be like asking Uruguay to compete with Argentina to win a trophy they haven't won since 1950, which was more than enough for him to withdraw from that particular line of enquiry.
By the way, getting into a World Cup venue with a flag, Irish or not, was not straightforward.
The security were on it in a flash, all flags had to be under a certain size and no commercial logos tolerated or any political message.
“What's this,” the guy asked pointedly.
I pointed to the FAI badge on the flag and my Irish jersey.
“Yes but this,” he pointed again at the lettering (obviously never seen Braveheart).
“Trim is my town in Ireland,” I offer with a smile hoping to give him the chance to avoid getting his money back from charm school.
“Is this a shop or a bar?” he prodded doggedly at the Sally Rogers part.
“No that's me mott,” I told him.
“Your what?”
"Ah yes, I'm a long way from Dalymount, Sally Rogers is me wife's name.”
At last a smile and not just from him, from the female guard beside him.
“Aaah,” they say and I'm in at last. “Lucky I wasn't rushin.”
Germany and Korea were next in town, and while nothing could ever compete with the Colombians, it's an altogether more sedate and sanitised few days. The Koreans were too polite to be noisy, the Germans were too complacent.
Most of them haven't travelled yet I'm told, what's the point, its only the groups and the tournament only hots up in the knock-out phases!
Loads of Koreans were walking around in Ozil and Kroos German jerseys.
Can you imagine the Green Army walking around in Harry Kane England tops!
When the game starts the Kazanians kick into gear supporting the Koreans while swooning over the German galaxy of stars.
The red shirts are cheered at every turn, Heung Min Son in particular, as the locals take great delight in their speed on the break and the quite obvious German malaise.
You all know what happened - late drama as VAR gave a goal back to Korea that had been dramatically chalked off.
When the VAR decision came back the place went crazy, then Manuel Neuer playing as an auxilliary striker lost the ball in the opposing box - one lashed clearance and one Son of a Gun - Heun Min, rolls into an empty net.
The Germans were out of the World Cup. The last time they ventured this far East, they lost the battle of Stalingrad.
Argentina were next in Kazan - to take on the French in what turned out to be a game for the ages.
They matched the Colombians – almost – for noise, colour and passion.
It was an absolute privilege to witness Killian Mbappe. He won a penalty with a 75-yard run like Michael Owen made against the same opposition back in '98, then lashed in two brilliant goals.
A guy from Yekaterineburg was on one side of us, a guy from Perm on the other, two places famous for wildly different reasons – Yekaterinburg for the demise of the Romanovs, Perm as the site of a notorious Gulag.
Mr Perm said - “Why don't your teams not play in England or in the Champions League, like the Welsh do."
A brief lesson in the difference between Ireland, Northern Ireland and Britain ensued.
Mr Yekaterinburg asked - “Who are the most famous teams in Ireland then?”
I pull a couple of Bohemian FC programmes out of the bag and go to the tables. His finger stopped immediately on Dundalk.
“Ah yes, they played Zenit St. Petersburg, yes?” Kudos to him.
There is a silence. I looked at Mr Perm as his finger kept moving slowly down. A dread begins to form in my stomach, “Surely he cannot?.., Please don't...I've a bad feeling... don't say it...” His finger stops.
“Ah Shamrock Rovers, yes. They are the best team yes?”
I stoop to pick up the pieces of my broken heart like so many supporters from Argentina in the vicinity.
Next up in Kazan after a few days of South Americanless calm was Brazil and Neymar who probably rolled from Samara where they overcame Mexico. The opposition was Belgium.
As you will remember, it turned out to be a wonderful game and a fitting finale to Kazan's involvement as a host city in this World Cup.
For the past few weeks, looking around at all the happy, proud locals, it was what the World Cup was all about – bringing people together. Sport has done more in one month than decades of politics in adding some international mix to the melting pot that is Kazan.
Hopefully, the Russians will get used to having people moving freely about their country.
GO TO DALYMOUNT PARK
This Friday night Bohemian FC host Bray Wanderers at 7.45pm - could be interesting.